Re: [vox-tech] UPS and auto battery
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Re: [vox-tech] UPS and auto battery
While we're on the subject of car batteries, I just figured I'd mention
that some new car batteries don't have the acid liquid like normal ones.
I know there's a few manufacturers out there, but only Optima comes to
mind right now (IANAOE). Apparently, they're completely sealed, have a
paste electrolyte that isn't supposed to leak (and onto your carpet) if
the case cracks , and supposedly last longer. They also aren't cheap.
Just figured I'd share my thoughts and plans for a Ghetto-UPS (once my gel
cells kick the bucket).
Ted Deppner said:
> On Tue, Mar 02, 2004 at 03:13:07PM -0800, Rod Roark wrote:
>> Thanks to everyone for the informative replies. Probably
>> what I'll do is look for a smallish battery in an auto parts
>> store to experiment with, and post here again when and if
>> anything comes of it.
> Lots of good stuff already said, but figure I'll briefly chime in with
> some of my experiences.
> Those sealed lead acid batteries in good UPSs have a life of 2 or 3
> years on the outside. They're not really good like a good marine
> battery for deep cycling, but being a lead acid they can take some
> abuse (very similar to a car battery).
> The issues with using a wildly higher current battery are fairly
> obvious. A 7Ah batter versus a "650 cold cranking amp" battery than can
> easily sustain 20+Amps for a good long time (10s of minutes). A 7Ah
> battery would only look like a dead short to the charger for minutes...
> a dead car battery could look like a dead short for an hour.
> Dangers... Only the cheap car cells still give off hydrogen (under
> normal conditions anyway), you can get sealed car batteries. I've seen
> 4 or 5 year old APC units burn up their circuit boards when new
> batteries where put in. The low end units with < 10Ah batteries
> typically have a charge controller that's on a PC board. Your typical
> car charge controller is an ABS plastic thing (or older bakalite). Big
> difference in current capacity, heat load, etc.
> If you can handle the possibility of fire and things exploding, have
> some fun. The current is enough to burn you and cause fires, but you
> can be safe about experimenting, and it's always fun. (You might be
> able to isolate the inverter from the charge controller and then
> integrate your own charge controller for instance.) In my estimation a
> small UPS is good for one or maybe two battery change outs, ie a
> battery change every 1 to 2 years, and the unit over all having a
> useful life of 3 to 5 years.
> All that said, investing in a heavy duty DC power supply, a car
> battery, and a DC-AC inverter would probably be a safer and ultimately
> less expensive and more useful endevor. DC-AC inverter would be less
> than $100, battery $50 on sale for a decent one. Not sure on the DC
> power supply, it would need to be able to sustane 25 Amps continuously,
> as you'd be actually running off the inverter the whole time and not be
> "switched from AC to DC on power failure".
> A simple car battery charger won't do for this (I've tried)... most of
> them have 'auto shut off' modes where they pulse on and off, while your
> battery drains current but the voltage stays high enough to shut off
> the charge sequence. You can run like this for several hours though in
> a pinch.
> A good link for this is http://www.dansdata.com/diyups.htm which showed
> up on Slash dot a few years ago I believe.
> Ted Deppner
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